Neutralizing Dark Lip Tones: A Guide for Permanent Makeup Artists

Dark tones on the lips are one of the most common issues permanent makeup artists face.

The causes can vary: from natural pigmentation of the skin to traces of previous unsuccessful procedures. The task of the artist is to select the right pigments for neutralizing unwanted tones and to restore a natural and beautiful shade to the lips.

Why Do Lips Turn Dark?

Dark tones on the lips can occur for several reasons:

• Natural Skin Pigmentation: Some clients naturally have darker or more purple-toned lips, which can make the permanent makeup process more challenging.
• Previous Unsuccessful Procedures: Sometimes, old pigment remnants remain on the lips, which can have cold or unnatural shades.
• Genetics and Aging: As we age, skin tone can change, and pigments may develop unattractive hues, especially if they have a cooler undertone.

How to Neutralize Dark Lip Tones?

To neutralize dark tones on the lips, it’s important to use pigments of opposite colors on the color wheel. This helps balance and "turn off" unwanted shades, making them warmer and more harmonious.

Basic Principles of Neutralization

• For Blue and Purple Tones: Use orange and red pigments.
• For Brown, Green, and Gray Tones: Use red, yellow, and peach pigments.

1. Neutralizing with Orange and Red Pigments

Orange and red pigments are ideal for neutralizing blue, purple, and cool undertones. These shades help create balance, especially when the lips show cold, bluish, or purple tones.

• Orange Pigment works perfectly with purple and blue tones since these colors are opposite each other on the color wheel. Orange helps "turn off" cool tones, creating a warmer hue.
• Red Pigment also neutralizes blue and purple tones but adds a more intense and vibrant color, which can be helpful if a deeper, more saturated hue is needed.

2. Neutralizing with Yellow and Peach Pigments

Yellow pigments are not only warm but also have a lightening effect. They help balance overly dark lips, especially when brown or gray undertones are present. Yellow pigments lighten the lips and make the color softer.

• Yellow Pigment (such as golden or lemony yellow shades) helps to lighten lips, removing excess darkness. This is especially helpful when you need to brighten the color and create a more natural, fresh shade.
• Peach Pigment combines orange and pink tones, making it effective for neutralizing brown and gray undertones, adding a fresh, youthful tone to the lips.

3. Mixing Pigments to Achieve the Desired Shade

For more complex cases, when multiple tones need to be neutralized at once (e.g., dark lips with both purple and gray undertones), it’s better to mix pigments. Mixing pigments allows the artist to control the color more precisely and achieve a more natural result.

• For lips with cold purple undertones, you can mix orange and red pigments in varying proportions to achieve the desired depth and intensity of color.
• For neutralizing dark brown or gray lips, a combination of yellow and peach pigments will be more effective for lightening and freshening up the color.

4. Recommendations for Selecting Pigments

• Client's Lip Tone: If the lips already have a strong purple tone, it’s best to use orange and red pigments. If the undertone is more brown or gray, yellow and peach tones will be more effective.
• Skin Type: Oily and problematic skin may cause pigments to change color more quickly, so it's important to choose pigments with high durability.
• Pigment Quality: For the best results, choose high-quality pigments that not only neutralize but also maintain color intensity during the healing process.

Example Pigment Mixes for Neutralization:

• For dark purple lips:
  50% orange pigment + 50% red pigment. This mix works great for purple undertones, turning the lips to a warmer, more vibrant shade.
• For dark brown lips:
  70% yellow pigment + 30% peach pigment. This mix lightens and neutralizes brown tones, giving the lips a fresh, natural look.
• For dark lips with gray undertones:
  60% yellow pigment + 40% peach pigment. This combination helps lighten grayish tones and makes the lips appear warmer and more harmonious.

Conclusion

Neutralizing dark lip tones is a crucial and complex step in permanent makeup work, requiring precision and knowledge. Choosing the right pigment, understanding its properties, and knowing how to mix shades will help you achieve a natural and beautiful result. It’s important to remember that every client is unique, and each case may require an individualized approach.

Use orange, red, yellow, and peach pigments depending on the original lip tone and achieve perfect results!